In search of the gastronomic grail–or, in this instance, we should say grill–author John T. Edge has dined across America on a quest to “sketch the cultural and historical landscape by way of what we eat.” His four-book series examines what he considers to be the iconic foods of America: fried chicken, burgers and fries, apple pie and donuts. The third book in the series, “Hamburger & Fries: An American Story,” was released in August of 2005, and is a pleasurable and mouthwatering read for foodies and cultural buffs alike.

Edge has long been recognized in culinary circles for his literary works in “Gourmet” and “Saveur” magazines. His James Beard Award nominated cookbook “A Gracious Plenty: Recipes and Recollections from the American South and Southern Belly” only added to his recognition, as will “Hamburger and Fries.” This master of culinary prose expands his menu as consistently as a five-star chef.

Edge opens his book with a brief history of the hamburger and ends with a short black book of national burger and fry joints visited. “Careful readers will note that I have not passed judgement on a single burger I ate … because local taste trumps all,” he says in a bold statement for a man who has consumed 13 flour or soy enhanced slug burgers on the “slug trail” in three days. Slug burgers became popular in Edge’s home state of Mississippi long after their WWI introduction. Perhaps the reason he set out across America in the first place—simply to find a better tasting burger.

Edge’s passion for the South does not prevent him from exploring other regional burgers such as the loco mocos of Honolulu, the chorizo burgers of L.A. or the garlic fries at Taylor’s Refresher right in the Bay Area’s Napa Valley, which offers a much more civilized sandwich, with flour in the bun as opposed to the patty, and a side of zinfandel, of course.

More than merely a review of burger joints seasoned with 15 essential regional recipes—such as the “tallow-poached burger” or the “mug steamed cheese”—Edge goes deep into analyzing cheeseburger microclimates that divide the steamed from broiled meat patties. The few recipes attempted were simple and worked well, but you are on your own when trying to hunt down pimentos (the recipe calls for far too many to pull them out of martini olives) or rendered beef tallow in the Bay Area. Edge suggests the old-time candle shops for a bit o’ the beef fat.