SPECIAL SERIES : The Underground Issue
Wet, Hot & Naked
A guide to Bay Area hot springs
 

Steam rises from the greenish water and sends a sweet, chalky smell into the air. It is the smell of the inside of a vitamin C bottle, the smell of health. Nude people eye each other with quick glances, shift their towels around, and sink into the pools with a sigh.

Back before the days of the $250 spa treatment, people used to soak in hot mineral water to relax. The water gets its heat from magma deep underground and pushes to the surface as a hot, bubbling spring. Northern California is home to more than 20 of these springs, many of which make an inexpensive weekend getaway.

If a resort atmosphere is what you desire, grab a Hank Williams album, take two non-drowsy Dramamine and head up to Harbin Hot Springs in rural Lake County. Its rambling, teal-green buildings are set back in the woods about two miles out of Middletown, and the clientele is an interesting mix of older hippies who have been coming to Harbin for years and young couples who want to try something new.

The water is held in two separate pools, one a pleasant 97 degrees, the other a toasty 112. The changing rooms are not for the shy; they are co-ed and people will talk about raw foods and mystical experiences. In the pools, however, there is a strict code of silence.

There is an entrance fee of $20 and it is worth it to stay overnight since campsites are free and driving back over Highway 29 in the dark is truly frightening. Free yoga classes are held daily and a whole host of massage therapists practice at Harbin, so a sense of bliss is easily obtainable.

For the more adventurous, a 10-mile trek into the lush redwood canyons of the Ventana Wilderness brings hikers to the popular waters of Sykes Springs. Lately, it has become a pilgrimage site for students from Santa Cruz, but in the winter, trails are mostly empty. Check in at the ranger station in Pfeiffer State Beach, pay $2 and head out.

Ferns, mossy boulders and water over 100 degrees make it the perfect place to bask in the beauty of nature. Alternate between jumping into the springs and Big Sur River for the total goose-bump experience! There are campsites nearby to fully enjoy the satisfaction of being in a hot bath as the sun comes up.

Closer to home, but much more hidden, are the springs near Stinson Beach. These springs hide under the sand by the Steep Ravine Campground, but are only accessible during a very low tide. Once on the beach, holes have to be dug to find the springs. These springs may seem like the urban legend of Marin County, but many locals from Bolinas and Stinson Beach visit regularly and can show you the way.

The trail to the springs is precarious and often slippery. The campsites at Steep Ravine are right on the ocean and cost $15 for a basic set up. When night falls, sit back and look at the lights of San Francisco shining over the ocean, and let all worries slip away.

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