For the sake of self-confidence and first impressions Americans may unknowingly coat their skin daily with hundreds of toxic chemicals. The products you count on to smell nice, feel clean and look great could have the same general health risks as smoking: cancer, infertility and even Alzheimer's.

SF State senior Katy Birnbaum, 24, considers herself a semi-conscientious consumer of body and beauty products. She avoids deodorant that contains aluminum, fragrances that give her headaches, and products tested on animals. She wears only minimal eye makeup made by MAC Cosmetics, a boutique brand of Este Lauder, that donates money to various AIDS research and prevention programs and recycles used makeup containers. "I guess that does not necessarily have any correlation with what they put in their makeup," she says, admitting she does not know the federal regulations on cosmetics.

Unlike food and drugs, "Cosmetic products and ingredients are not subject to FDA premarket approval ... ," according to the Food and Drug Administration's website. "Manufacturers are not required to register their cosmetic establishments, file data on ingredients, or report cosmetic-related injuries to FDA."

Hold up, boys! "Cosmetics" are not just for girls. In governmental terms they include anything that is applied to the body in order to "promote attractiveness," including toothpaste, deodorant, shaving cream and many soap products.

The fact these products are not tested for safety is a slap in the face to Stacy Malkan, co-founder of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, who notes there are no legal standards for label claims like "natural" or "fragrance-free." "We have a situation where companies can put nearly any chemical in a product and call it clean and gentle," says Malkan, author of "Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry."

Fragrance - the most ubiquitous and ironically ambiguous ingredient in products - is considered a trade secret, so companies are not required to disclose the dozens or even hundreds of synthetic chemical compounds that create their sacred scent. Even many "unscented" products have masking fragrances, warns Malkan.

"You don't even realize perfume is in so many products," says Birnbaum, whose brother constantly suffered skin rashes from fragrances when they were growing up. "You can't get away from it and it's really frustrating." Six of the products Birnbaum uses contain unidentified fragrances.

The best way to educate your self about cosmetics ingredients and potential health risks is through an online database, called "Skin Deep," compiled by the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit that provides information on chemicals in consumer products.

You could also consult a conscientious health and beauty aid buyer, like Tina Rodia of Other Avenues, a worker-owned cooperative in the Outer Sunset. She knows the potential hazards of product ingredients, the business ethics of cosmetics companies and which products work best for certain skin types. "The way I approach it is by first determining the needs of your skin, face, or hair," says Rodia, who has been a HABA buyer for 11 years.

"Good companies" will actually list fragrance ingredients or include phrases like "Phthalate Free," or "Contains no synthetic or petrochemicals," says Rodia. But Malkan warns that even the phrase "100 percent" does not guarantee the contents of the product is all natural or meets USDA organic standards, unless the container has the agency's signature seal.

Concern over the side effects of cosmetic chemicals may seem exaggerated, but Malkan says, many companies over look studies showing long-term effects of continuous exposure. "Since the number of products and the different variations people use on a daily basis increases exponentially every year, I think it's premature and rash to say (the chemicals) would not effect people," says Birnbaum. "I used Revlon and L'Oreal as a kid - just playing with other people's makeup or things I got as gifts. You can taste the chemicals in the makeup and its really freaky."

"We advocate for the precautionary principle," says Malkan. "If there is credible evidence that a chemical causes harm, we should use or develop a safer alternative." Companies sell the same products without the chemicals in Europe, so they are capable of eliminating these chemicals in all products. "Ask yourself: 'Do I really need this?'"

Featured products and chemical info:

• Over 1,100 chemicals banned in the EU
• Only 11 of those chemicals are banned in the U.S.

Shikai Shower Gel (Lavender Mint)
Label Claims: "All Natural," "Safe for babies"
Number of Ingredients: 16
Toxic Ingredients:
1. DIAZOLIDINYL UREA: antimicrobial preservative: a primary cause of contact dermatitis (American Academy of Dermatology). May be derived from mammal urine* may release formaldehyde.
2. FORMALDEHYDE: A carcinogenic impurity released by a number of cosmetic preservatives, therefore it may not be listed on the label. There are no restrictions on the levels of formaldehyde allowed in any body care products, no requirement to test impurity levels for products made with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives.
3. METHYPARABEN: An anti-microbial preservative. Banned from cosmetics in EU. Known human skin toxicant, may cause allergies, cancer, endocrine disruption and neurological disorders.
4. COCAMIDE DEA: fatty acids from coconut oil combined with diethanolamine, Used as a foaming agent in bath products.
5. Diethanolamine, a chemical wetting and foaming agent that can react with other ingredients in the cosmetic formula to form an extremely potent carcinogen called nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA), linked with stomach, esophagus, liver and bladder cancers. Known immune system toxicant http://www.preventcancer.com/consumers/cosmetics/diethanolamine.htm
6. TRIETHANOLAMINE LAURYL SULFATE: enhances skin absorption Contamination concerns: Nistrosamines: banned in EU and Canada, possible carcinogen, developmental and reproductive toxicant.
7. LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE: contamination concerns - ETHYLENE OXIDE, banned in EU and Canada, carcinogenic, skin and immune system toxicant, reproductive, developmental, and neurological toxicant. 1,4-DIOXANE Banned in EU and Canada, The chemical is an unwanted byproduct of an ingredient processing method called ethoxylation used to reduce the risk of skin irritation for petroleum-based ingredients. It can easily be removed from products before they are sold, probable human carcinogen, toxic to the kidney, brain and respiratory tract. More than 56 ingredients are associated with the contaminant, including sodium laureth sulfate, PEG compounds, and chemicals that include the clauses "xynol," "ceteareth," and "oleth."
http://safecosmetics.org/article.php?id=250

Crest whitening toothpaste (Mint):
Label Claims: N/A
Number of Ingredients: 20
Toxic Ingredients:
1. SODIUM FLUORIDE (active ingredient) anti-cavity and anti plaque may compromise bone structure and increase risk of fractures, possible developmental and neurological toxin, may cause intellectual impairment and decreased sperm count, studies on long-term effects of fluoride accumulation have not been fully assessed.
http://www.fluoridation.com/calgaryh.htm
http://www.ewg.org/chemindex/chemicals/24461
2. PEG-6 Contamination concerns: (ETHYLENE OXIDE, 1,4-DIOXANE
3. Glycerin: (not toxic) derived from animal fat unless listed as vegetable glycerin

Adidas Cotton Tech Deodorant for Women
Label Claims: Aluminum Free
Number of Ingredients: 33
Toxic Ingredients:
1. Fragrance: unidentified
2. Propylene glycol (main ingredient) is practically non-toxic when taken orally. It has been found to provoke skin irritation and sensitization in humans at as low as 2% concentration, while the industry review panel recommends cosmetics can contain up to 50% of the substance. A mineral oil found in automatic brake and hydraulic fluid and industrial antifreeze. Prevents perspiration.. Repeated or prolonged exposure may be toxic to central nervous system and cause organ damage, reproductive effects and birth defects.
http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-Propylene_glycol-9927239
3. Lithium magnesium sodium silicate: potential neurotoxin

4. Tricolsan: endocrine disrupter, skin irritant, high hazard rating

5. Geraniol: Known immune system toxicant, allergen

6. Limonene: known immune system toxicant, skin irritant
7. D & C Violet: may be derived from coal tar, a possible carcinogen
8. Stearic Acid: (not toxic) From PETA's Caring Consumer: May be derived from fat from cows and sheep and dogs and cats euthanized in animal shelters, etc. Most often refers to a fatty substance taken from the stomachs of pigs.

MAC RUBY VROOM LIPSTICK
Number of ingredients 32 (19 color pigments)
Label Claims: Made in Canada
Toxic Ingredients:
1. Paraffin: a possible carcinogen
2. Tocopherol: contamination concern (only if product is made outside of Canada): Hydroquinone is the aromatic organic compound used in the production of other chemicals and occurs naturally in some foods. Prohibited for use on skin or mucous membranes in Canada, so this product was tested for purity. A respiratory and immune system toxicant, possible carcinogen, possible neurotoxin and reproductive and developmental toxicant.
3. FD & C dyes are approved by the FDA, but some may contain lead.
4. Carmine: (not toxic) A natural red pigment from the female cochineal insect. 70,000 beetles must be killed to produce one pound of dye, may cause allergic reaction (PETA's Caring Consumer)

MAC Zoom Lash Mascara
Number of ingredients: 39
Label Claims: Made in Canada
Toxic ingredients:
1. Tocopheryl acetate (Contamination concern: Hydroquinone - only if product is made outside Canada)
2. Phenoxyethanol -possible skin irritant and immune toxicant
3. Chroroxylenol - possible skin irritant and sensitzer
4. Ferric Ferrocyanide: hazardous air pollutant -EPA Prussian blue dissociates and becomes inactive in very acidic environments and may release cyanide. May cause constipation in large doses

UNLISTED INGRDIENTS:

FRAGRANCE
May contain:
1. Allergens: can trigger asthma attacks
2. Sensitizers: can cause immune system damage, once sensitized a person may have allergic reactions from exposure for the rest of their life
3. Phthalates: (potential ingredient in fragrance) an endocrine disrupter that may cause early puberty for girls, reduced sperm count and testicular cancer as well as birth defects of the penis. This large family of petrochemicals is used to increase scent longevity.
4. Neurotoxins: (1986) The U.S. National Academy of Sciences identified fragrance ingredients as one of six categories of neurotoxins (chemicals that are toxic to the brain) that should be thoroughly investigated for impacts on human health. However, this research has not been demanded or funded. The FDA has taken no action on a petition submitted to the agency in 1999 requesting fragrance components to be listed on labels.

LEAD: A proven neurotoxin causing learning, language and behavioral problems. Builds up in the body over time. Sunscreens, foundation, nail colors, lipsticks, whitening toothpaste, and hair dyes can become contaminated with lead in two ways: raw materials may be contaminated or the pigments used to color a product contain lead.
The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention states: "No safe blood lead level has been identified." http://www.safecosmetics.org/article.php?id=223
L'Oreal Colour Riche "True Red" Lipstick tested positive for lead at 0.65 parts per million in independent laboratory tests funded by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics in 2007.The U.S. Food and Drug Administration limits lead in candy at 0.1 ppm. L'Oreal, Maybelline and Cover Girl lipsticks consistently had the highest amounts of lead, compared to other manufacturers.
MAC Matte Viva Glam lipstick had lead levels at 0.03 ppm

ALUMINUM: acts as an antiperspirant in deodorant and keeps you from sweating effectively forcing more of the chemical into your body. In 1993, the World Health Organization said, "There is a suspected link between Alzheimer's disease and the toxicity of aluminum." The Agency for Toxic Substances and & Disease Registry reports "Exposure to high levels of aluminum may result in respiratory and neurological problems."
http://naturalmedicine.suite101.com/article.cfm/aluminum_in_deodorant#ixzz0RISst7MA

NOTE: Only laboratory tests can determine whether unlisted ingredients or contamination concern ingredients are in a product. There are many other chemicals, not covered in this report, which may be toxic. Most claims about the effects of the discussed chemicals are disputed.

Well Known Organic products that have signed the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics Compact:
Aubrey Organics, which has a men's line; Alba; Burt's Bee's Inc; ZIA; Dr. Bronner's Magic Soaps (for men and women).
Companies pledge to make safer products and provide greater transparency to consumers.